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How Horses Cope With Cold
 (http://www.saddleshop.com/sentinel/articles/coldhorse.jpg)  
by Heather Smith Thomas


Horses readily adapt to winter  weather. Cold temperature in itself is not a 
problem for a horse if he's  had a chance to prepare gradually by growing a 
winter coat as fall  temperatures drop. Wind and wet weather are the factors 
that can chill a  horse. In windy regions, horses need some type of shelter to 
protect  against the wind chill that can whip away body heat.    

Horses handle cold weather better than humans do; equines evolved  in the 
cold climates of northern Europe and Asia. Their natural "comfort  zone" 
(energy-neutral temperature zone, in which they don't need to expend  extra energy to 
maintain normal body temperature if weather is not wet or  windy) is from 
about 15 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The horse's body is  better at creating and 
conserving heat in cold weather than dissipating it  in hot weather. 
BODY  CHANGES
As fall changes to winter, the horse's  body undergoes a series of 
physiological changes, some of which actually  begin long before the first frosts. As 
soon as the days start to shorten  in midsummer, the horse begins to grow a new 
hair coat, more dense than  his summer hair. As you brush and groom him in 
late summer you'll notice  he's shedding some of his short summer hair. His 
metabolism begins to  change also, enabling him to store more fat for insulation 
and for energy  reserves. A layer of fat under the skin makes it more difficult 
for heat  to escape from the body, and protects against cold weather. The 
layer of  fat needs little energy to maintain, and has few blood vessels. The  
surface vessels that radiate heat in summer draw back deeper in  winter. 
As soon as nights start getting cold, his body begins to change, even  if the 
days are still quite warm. If you are working a horse hard, you  will notice 
that he does not dissipate heat as well as he did earlier in  the summer; he 
may sweat more, and his sweat may start to have some smell  to it, more like 
the sweat of an unconditioned horse. 
He grows thicker hair as part of his protection against winter cold,  but if 
he is blanketed to prevent this extra hair growth, or clipped, he  won't do 
well outside during winter storms. Clipping makes it easier to  cool out and 
groom a horse that is being ridden or worked in winter, but  it's not wise to 
clip a horse that will have to spend time outdoors. If he  does have a good 
winter coat, don't blanket him or bring him into the barn  just because of foul 
weather. Horses prefer being outdoors even in the  coldest weather and do fine if 
they have some kind of windbreak, or a  run-in shed to get out of driving 
snow or rain. A horse in good condition  with a good hair coat is usually better 
off outdoors. Make sure horses go  into winter with adequate body condition. A 
thin horse won't winter as  well as a fat one. Horses should never be too 
fat, but they need enough  for a good insulating layer under the skin. 
Long winter hair traps a layer of warm body heat between the skin and  the 
cold air. When it's cold, tiny muscles in the skin make the hair stand  up 
fluffy, increasing the insulating effect, and blood vessels near the  skin 
constrict, conserving body heat by keeping the blood closer to the  warm interior of 
the body, not allowing heat to escape from blood vessels  near the skin 
surface. 
TO BLANKET OR NOT?
A normal winter  hair coat is much more insulating than most horse blankets. 
Adding a heavy  blanket or piling on several light blankets can actually make 
a horse  colder because it flattens out his hair and destroys the insulating  
effect. Blanketing may be necessary, however, for a clipped horse, or for  one 
moved north during winter without a chance to grow a heavy coat, or a  horse 
forced to stand outside in a winter storm without a windbreak. If a  horse 
becomes so wet and cold he has to shiver to maintain body  temperature, he'll 
burn more calories and need extra feed, or he'll start  losing weight. Under 
those conditions, he'd be better off indoors or  blanketed. 
Horses have a normal body temperature of about 100 degrees Farenheit  (38 
degrees Celcius). They maintain this temperature in cold weather with  the help 
of several mechanisms which include shivering, changes in hormone  levels, 
increased body metabolism, increased digestion of fiber (adding  more fiber or 
more protein to the diet can help a horse keep warm, since  digestion of these 
nutrients produce heat), growing longer and thicker  hair which can stand up on 
the skin to make a layer of insulating air  pockets, increased feed 
consumption, and increased activity. Cold horses  on a frosty morning often run and buck 
to warm up. 
VALUABLE FUR  COAT
A well fed horse can manage at temperatures  down to 30 or even 40 below zero 
Farenheit if there's no wind and he's not  wet. Wind ruffles the hair and 
destroys its insulating quality. The  downward direction in which the hair grows 
(along with the oil glands that  waterproof the hair) help keep a horse dry in 
rain and snow. The density  of the hair coat and the directions in which the 
hair grows make such a  good overcoat that snow can form ice on the outer 
surface of this coat  without the skin becoming chilled. 
It takes a lot of moisture on the hair coat before the dampness soaks  
through to the skin, since most of the water runs off. Once a horse gets  wet, 
however, he may chill. A wet horse loses body heat up to 20 times  faster than a 
dry horse, because the moisture flattens out the hair and  eliminates the air 
spaces between the hairs, greatly reducing the  insulating effect. Even a warm 
winter storm (rain instead of snow, or snow  that immediately melts) can be 
hard on a horse, if he gets soaked and then  gets chilled by dropping 
temperatures before he has a chance to dry  off. 
His best defense against cold are a long coat and a layer of fat just  
beneath the skin; both of these help reduce loss of body heat. Most wild  animals go 
into winter fatter than they are at other times of year; this  is nature's 
way to protect them against cold and give them some reserves  for energy and 
body heat. Long winter hair is the first line of defense,  but its insulating 
quality is lost if the horse is wet or covered with  mud. 
It's important that a horse have shelter during wet weather. A horse  will 
rarely take shelter from cold, but he will try to get away from rain  or driving 
snow. Horses prefer the warmth of winter sun to a shady shed.  If an outdoor 
horse's coat gets muddy, groom him to keep it from being  matted down. 
PROGRAMMED FOR  COLD
Humans tend to get frostbitten toes and  noses in severely cold weather, but 
horses rarely suffer frostbite. The  horse's blunt muzzle is so richly 
supplied with blood that it can  withstand extreme cold without freezing. His long 
nasal passages with  their bone spirals and air pouch (which he also uses for 
snorting and  whistling when he blows air through it) help warm the cold air 
before it  reaches his lungs. 
A horse's feet and legs are constructed in such a way that they can  
withstand extreme cold without discomfort or damage, even when standing in  deep snow. 
His slender legs are just bone and tendons below the knees and  hocks, 
requiring much less circulation than muscles, and are thus less  susceptible to 
frostbite. This allows them to handle extended exposure to  cold and snow with no 
ill effects. The cells in bones and tendons need  less blood for maintenance 
and they also lose less heat. The horse is able  to shunt most of the blood 
away from his feet and still have a very  functional foot. When the feet start to 
get cold, the shunts open up so  that the blood flows from the smallest 
arteries directly into the veins  without having to pass through the smaller 
capillaries. 
If the horse gets cold, the blood vessels in his skin constrict to  minimize 
heat loss, and the hair shafts stand on end for better  insulating. If he 
continues to be cold, he starts to shiver, with his  muscles rapidly contracting 
and relaxing--which quickly raises his  metabolism rate and amount of fuel 
burned in the muscles. With his large  blocks of muscle, the horse can shiver much 
more readily and more  comfortably than a human. Since most of this muscle 
action is being  converted to heat, this is a very effective way to warm 
himself. It takes  a great deal of energy, however, to shiver for a prolonged period; 
this  can use up his energy stores. 
The horse has several other unique features that enable him to cope  with 
winter. He is less vulnerable to snowblindness than a human, since  his 
horizontal pupils can close more tightly than our round ones,  filtering out more of 
the damaging ultraviolet light. His thick eyelashes  protect his eyes from 
winter wind and extremely cold temperatures. If the  wind blows, he instinctively 
turns his back to it. This protects his  thin-skinned face and neck, which have 
more surface blood vessels. His  rump and back have thicker skin and hair, 
and less surface blood vessels,  and can withstand the wind better. He uses his 
tail to protect his more  delicate underparts. His mane and forelock give 
waterproof protection for  head and neck. Horses in groups stand close together to 
block the wind,  and thus benefit from each others' body warmth. With a 
chance to prepare  himself for cold weather, the horse can be quite comfortable and 
happy  outdoors in winter.   
 



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      <DIV align=3Dcenter><B><FONT face=3D"Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-s=
erif"=20
      size=3D4>How Horses Cope With Cold</FONT></B></DIV></TD></TR>
  <TR>
    <TD vAlign=3Dtop width=3D"34%" bgColor=3D#ff0000 rowSpan=3D2>
      <DIV align=3Dcenter><EM><A=20
      href=3D"http://www.saddleshop.com/sentinel/articles/coldhorse.jpg"=20
      target=3D_blank><IMG height=3D292=20
      src=3D"http://www.saddleshop.com/sentinel/articles/coldhorse_sm.jpg"=20
      width=3D219 border=3D0></A></EM> </DIV></TD>
    <TD vAlign=3Dtop width=3D"66%">
      <DIV align=3Dright><EM><STRONG>by Heather Smith Thomas<BR></STRONG></E=
M>
      <FORM><INPUT onclick=3Dwindow.history.back() type=3Dbutton value=3DBac=
k name=3Dbutton2>=20
      </FORM><EM><STRONG></STRONG></EM></DIV></TD></TR>
  <TR>
    <TD vAlign=3Dtop><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000>Horses readily adapt to w=
inter=20
      weather. Cold temperature in itself is not a problem for a horse if he=
's=20
      had a chance to prepare gradually by growing a winter coat as fall=20
      temperatures drop. Wind and wet weather are the factors that can chill=
 a=20
      horse. In windy regions, horses need some type of shelter to protect=20
      against the wind chill that can whip away body heat.=20
</FONT></STRONG></TD></TR>
  <TR vAlign=3Dtop>
    <TD colSpan=3D2>
      <P><BR>Horses handle cold weather better than humans do; equines evolv=
ed=20
      in the cold climates of northern Europe and Asia. Their natural "comfo=
rt=20
      zone" (energy-neutral temperature zone, in which they don't need to ex=
pend=20
      extra energy to maintain normal body temperature if weather is not wet=
 or=20
      windy) is from about 15 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The horse's body is=20
      better at creating and conserving heat in cold weather than dissipatin=
g it=20
      in hot weather.</P>
      <P><FONT color=3D#ff0000 size=3D3><STRONG><FONT=20
      face=3D"Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size=3D4>BODY=20
      CHANGES</FONT></STRONG></FONT><BR>As fall changes to winter, the horse=
's=20
      body undergoes a series of physiological changes, some of which actual=
ly=20
      begin long before the first frosts. As soon as the days start to short=
en=20
      in midsummer, the horse begins to grow a new hair coat, more dense tha=
n=20
      his summer hair. As you brush and groom him in late summer you'll noti=
ce=20
      he's shedding some of his short summer hair. His metabolism begins to=20
      change also, enabling him to store more fat for insulation and for ene=
rgy=20
      reserves. A layer of fat under the skin makes it more difficult for he=
at=20
      to escape from the body, and protects against cold weather. The layer=20=
of=20
      fat needs little energy to maintain, and has few blood vessels. The=20
      surface vessels that radiate heat in summer draw back deeper in=20
winter.</P>
      <P>As soon as nights start getting cold, his body begins to change, ev=
en=20
      if the days are still quite warm. If you are working a horse hard, you=
=20
      will notice that he does not dissipate heat as well as he did earlier=20=
in=20
      the summer; he may sweat more, and his sweat may start to have some sm=
ell=20
      to it, more like the sweat of an unconditioned horse.</P>
      <P>He grows thicker hair as part of his protection against winter cold=
,=20
      but if he is blanketed to prevent this extra hair growth, or clipped,=20=
he=20
      won't do well outside during winter storms. Clipping makes it easier t=
o=20
      cool out and groom a horse that is being ridden or worked in winter, b=
ut=20
      it's not wise to clip a horse that will have to spend time outdoors. I=
f he=20
      does have a good winter coat, don't blanket him or bring him into the=20=
barn=20
      just because of foul weather. Horses prefer being outdoors even in the=
=20
      coldest weather and do fine if they have some kind of windbreak, or a=20
      run-in shed to get out of driving snow or rain. A horse in good condit=
ion=20
      with a good hair coat is usually better off outdoors. Make sure horses=
 go=20
      into winter with adequate body condition. A thin horse won't winter as=
=20
      well as a fat one. Horses should never be too fat, but they need enoug=
h=20
      for a good insulating layer under the skin.</P>
      <P>Long winter hair traps a layer of warm body heat between the skin a=
nd=20
      the cold air. When it's cold, tiny muscles in the skin make the hair s=
tand=20
      up fluffy, increasing the insulating effect, and blood vessels near th=
e=20
      skin constrict, conserving body heat by keeping the blood closer to th=
e=20
      warm interior of the body, not allowing heat to escape from blood vess=
els=20
      near the skin surface.</P>
      <P><FONT color=3D#ff0000 size=3D3><STRONG><FONT=20
      face=3D"Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size=3D4>TO BLANKET OR=20=
NO<FONT=20
      color=3D#ff0000 size=3D3><STRONG><FONT=20
      face=3D"Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"=20
      size=3D4></FONT></STRONG></FONT>T?</FONT></STRONG></FONT><BR>A normal=20=
winter=20
      hair coat is much more insulating than most horse blankets. Adding a h=
eavy=20
      blanket or piling on several light blankets can actually make a horse=20
      colder because it flattens out his hair and destroys the insulating=20
      effect. Blanketing may be necessary, however, for a clipped horse, or=20=
for=20
      one moved north during winter without a chance to grow a heavy coat, o=
r a=20
      horse forced to stand outside in a winter storm without a windbreak. I=
f a=20
      horse becomes so wet and cold he has to shiver to maintain body=20
      temperature, he'll burn more calories and need extra feed, or he'll st=
art=20
      losing weight. Under those conditions, he'd be better off indoors or=20
      blanketed.</P>
      <P>Horses have a normal body temperature of about 100 degrees Farenhei=
t=20
      (38 degrees Celcius). They maintain this temperature in cold weather w=
ith=20
      the help of several mechanisms which include shivering, changes in hor=
mone=20
      levels, increased body metabolism, increased digestion of fiber (addin=
g=20
      more fiber or more protein to the diet can help a horse keep warm, sin=
ce=20
      digestion of these nutrients produce heat), growing longer and thicker=
=20
      hair which can stand up on the skin to make a layer of insulating air=20
      pockets, increased feed consumption, and increased activity. Cold hors=
es=20
      on a frosty morning often run and buck to warm up.</P>
      <P><FONT color=3D#ff0000 size=3D3><STRONG><FONT=20
      face=3D"Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size=3D4>VALUABLE FUR=20
      COAT</FONT></STRONG></FONT><BR>A well fed horse can manage at temperat=
ures=20
      down to 30 or even 40 below zero Farenheit if there's no wind and he's=
 not=20
      wet. Wind ruffles the hair and destroys its insulating quality. The=20
      downward direction in which the hair grows (along with the oil glands=20=
that=20
      waterproof the hair) help keep a horse dry in rain and snow. The densi=
ty=20
      of the hair coat and the directions in which the hair grows make such=20=
a=20
      good overcoat that snow can form ice on the outer surface of this coat=
=20
      without the skin becoming chilled.</P>
      <P>It takes a lot of moisture on the hair coat before the dampness soa=
ks=20
      through to the skin, since most of the water runs off. Once a horse ge=
ts=20
      wet, however, he may chill. A wet horse loses body heat up to 20 times=
=20
      faster than a dry horse, because the moisture flattens out the hair an=
d=20
      eliminates the air spaces between the hairs, greatly reducing the=20
      insulating effect. Even a warm winter storm (rain instead of snow, or=20=
snow=20
      that immediately melts) can be hard on a horse, if he gets soaked and=20=
then=20
      gets chilled by dropping temperatures before he has a chance to dry=20
      off.</P>

      <P>His best defense against cold are a long coat and a layer of fat ju=
st=20
      beneath the skin; both of these help reduce loss of body heat. Most wi=
ld=20
      animals go into winter fatter than they are at other times of year; th=
is=20
      is nature's way to protect them against cold and give them some reserv=
es=20
      for energy and body heat. Long winter hair is the first line of defens=
e,=20
      but its insulating quality is lost if the horse is wet or covered with=
=20
      mud.</P>
      <P>It's important that a horse have shelter during wet weather. A hors=
e=20
      will rarely take shelter from cold, but he will try to get away from r=
ain=20
      or driving snow. Horses prefer the warmth of winter sun to a shady she=
d.=20
      If an outdoor horse's coat gets muddy, groom him to keep it from being=
=20
      matted down.</P>
      <P><FONT color=3D#ff0000 size=3D3><STRONG><FONT=20
      face=3D"Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size=3D4>PROGRAMMED FOR=
=20
      COLD</FONT></STRONG></FONT><BR>Humans tend to get frostbitten toes and=
=20
      noses in severely cold weather, but horses rarely suffer frostbite. Th=
e=20
      horse's blunt muzzle is so richly supplied with blood that it can=20
      withstand extreme cold without freezing. His long nasal passages with=20
      their bone spirals and air pouch (which he also uses for snorting and=20
      whistling when he blows air through it) help warm the cold air before=20=
it=20
      reaches his lungs.</P>
      <P>A horse's feet and legs are constructed in such a way that they can=
=20
      withstand extreme cold without discomfort or damage, even when standin=
g in=20
      deep snow. His slender legs are just bone and tendons below the knees=20=
and=20
      hocks, requiring much less circulation than muscles, and are thus less=
=20
      susceptible to frostbite. This allows them to handle extended exposure=
 to=20
      cold and snow with no ill effects. The cells in bones and tendons need=
=20
      less blood for maintenance and they also lose less heat. The horse is=20=
able=20
      to shunt most of the blood away from his feet and still have a very=20
      functional foot. When the feet start to get cold, the shunts open up s=
o=20
      that the blood flows from the smallest arteries directly into the vein=
s=20
      without having to pass through the smaller capillaries.</P>
      <P>If the horse gets cold, the blood vessels in his skin constrict to=20
      minimize heat loss, and the hair shafts stand on end for better=20
      insulating. If he continues to be cold, he starts to shiver, with his=20
      muscles rapidly contracting and relaxing--which quickly raises his=20
      metabolism rate and amount of fuel burned in the muscles. With his lar=
ge=20
      blocks of muscle, the horse can shiver much more readily and more=20
      comfortably than a human. Since most of this muscle action is being=20
      converted to heat, this is a very effective way to warm himself. It ta=
kes=20
      a great deal of energy, however, to shiver for a prolonged period; thi=
s=20
      can use up his energy stores.</P>
      <P>The horse has several other unique features that enable him to cope=
=20
      with winter. He is less vulnerable to snowblindness than a human, sinc=
e=20
      his horizontal pupils can close more tightly than our round ones,=20
      filtering out more of the damaging ultraviolet light. His thick eyelas=
hes=20
      protect his eyes from winter wind and extremely cold temperatures. If=20=
the=20
      wind blows, he instinctively turns his back to it. This protects his=20
      thin-skinned face and neck, which have more surface blood vessels. His=
=20
      rump and back have thicker skin and hair, and less surface blood vesse=
ls,=20
      and can withstand the wind better. He uses his tail to protect his mor=
e=20
      delicate underparts. His mane and forelock give waterproof protection=20=
for=20
      head and neck. Horses in groups stand close together to block the wind=
,=20
      and thus benefit from each others' body warmth. With a chance to prepa=
re=20
      himself for cold weather, the horse can be quite comfortable and happy=
=20
      outdoors in winter.</P></TD></TR>
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